To braid or not to braid?
It’s a question many Black women are asking as summer approaches, after Consumer Reports says its investigation found 10 popular synthetic braiding hair products contain chemicals that may cause cancer.
Stream NBC4 newscasts for free right here, right now.
WATCH HEREThe study sparked concern among women and social media users. Some said the research matched their own experiences with synthetic hair.
"I haven’t worn knotless braids for about a year now because of this reason," one social media user said.
We have the news you need to know to start your day. Sign up for the First & 4Most morning newsletter — delivered to your inbox daily.
SIGN UP To help address confusion, News4 spoke with a dermatologist and hair care professionals about what to know before your next hair appointment.
What is synthetic hair?
Dr. Cheryl Burgess, the founder of D.C.’s Center for Dermatology and Dermatologic Surgery, said she has seen patients have reactions to synthetic braids, especially those that reach past their neck or shoulders because of increased contact with skin.
Synthetic hair is made from plastic or copolymers and can contain volatile organic compounds such as acetone, benzene or styrene, Burgess said.
Components including benzene have been linked to a higher risk of cancer, including certain types of blood leukemia, she said.
“We know those chemicals, or those heavy metals, are dangerous,” Burgess said. “We've already proven that, so why are they using those products on synthetic hair?”
Women sometimes choose braids to have a quick hairstyle for vacation, and synthetic hair is typically cheaper than human hair.
“It's been in our culture for many, many years, and we are now starting to evaluate the synthetic nature of these strands,” Burgess said.
Why are some researchers concerned?
Studies published in recent years have questioned the safety of some hair products marketed to Black women, including chemical hair relaxers that contain phthalates, as NBC News reported.
Phthalates are a family of chemicals found in a variety of products from shower curtains to shampoo to food containers. The chemicals are classified as endocrine disruptors that disrupt the body’s natural hormone system and can increase the risk of developing hormone-sensitive cancers.
“’How much is too much?’ is the question,” Burgess said regarding when phthalates exposure becomes an issue.
“That's why research needs to be conducted in: What are the maximum allowable doses? That's what the FDA looks at,” she said.
The Food and Drug Administration does not require makers of cosmetic products to seek approval or submit safety data from the agency before they hit the market. However, the agency can prohibit and restrict an ingredient it deems harmful.
Is it safe to wear synthetic braids?
Burgess said more research on the safety of synthetic braids is needed.
“Depending on further studies to see how much of these toxic chemicals and of these copolymers — benzene, styrene, whatever that's being used — is known, then what are we saying to the patients? ‘Stop it, because we don't know?’” she asked. “That to me, as a researcher, is not plausible.”
Burgess said researchers need to see if a “cluster effect” develops among women who wear synthetic braids.
“We’ve been wearing braids now since the ‘70s. We should see an upsurge in cancer if that's really the reality, particularly people who get braids pretty much all their life,” Burgess said.
The dermatologist advised women to wait until further research is conducted to determine whether to change their hair routines but to remain cautious.
“If there's a reason of concern, I would definitely only use human hair,” Burgess said. “But if it's never affected you, and you're the kind of person on the side of ‘Until it happens to me or somebody I know, I'm not going to do anything,’ then that may be fine.”
She said most people do not react to using human hair unless it is contaminated with fungus or other germs. She said rinsing synthetic hair in any form of vinegar will denature some of its components, but people can still be exposed to some of the materials in other ways, such as brushing their hair with a synthetic brush or using plastic containers.
Thinking about wearing your natural hair more?
The history of Black hair is one of self-expression and cultural significance, but also discrimination, hair care professionals say.
“Unfortunately, a lot of people in the Black community have been taught and then unfortunately believe that their hair is difficult to manage,” said Ajia Minnis Lanham, the founder and CEO of D.C.’s Thrive Hair Bar. “Others may believe that their hair is beautiful, but they have been taught and then believe that while it may be beautiful, it's not professional.”
Lanham said her store received an uptick of questions about hair braiding after Consumer Reports’ research came out.
“My belief is everything in moderation,” Lanham said.
Lanham said the safest thing for people to do is wear their hair naturally more often. She said people should also avoid constantly wearing braids, regardless of the type.
“Give yourself a break, not just because of the known carcinogens and the probable carcinogens that we found are present in the synthetic braiding hair based on the consumer report, but also just for giving your scalp some relief,” Lanham said.
She recommends a consultation from a cosmetologist and visiting a dermatologist for any scalp conditions. She also advised avoiding products with sulfates and phthalates.
“Things can be marketed to let's say, ‘Oh, this is for Black women’, but again, what does that mean? We do not all have the same hair. We do not all have the same needs,” Lanham said.
Regardless of the type of hair used, Carmen Sola, the owner of Sashelvis Hair Salon in Bowie, Maryland, said any hairstyle that places pressure on the hair can lead to breakage.
“I don't care if it's braids. I don't care if it's a ponytail, it'll do it,” Sola said. “You just have to change style.”
Sola said everyone should still perform basic care, even when in a protective style, such as washing their hair weekly and removing braids after three weeks.
“I just want us to keep saying the word that they used to say long time ago: Hair is glory,” Sola said. “I don't hear people saying that anymore. We are beautiful women of color, and we have to keep it up.”
We've got the news you need to know to start your day. Sign up for the First & 4Most morning newsletter — delivered to your inbox daily. Sign up here.
