Tonight, the much hyped pop-up dinner theater Sensorium from chef Byron Brown opens at the Yards Park. We gave you a look at the offerings a few weeks back, and here now, is the field dispatch from our preview over the weekend.
Picture a dinner party thrown by the Mad Hatter—quite avant-garde for buttoned-up D.C. Elastic performers contort their bodies and voices in ways both beautiful and odd. However, some kinks still needed to be ironed out during previews: The timing of the food was an issue. Dishes are to be accompanied by performance vignettes, but this weekend, were cold by the time the command was given to eat. The 12-course dinner also includes some clunkers, like a watery cauliflower soup with fried strings of potato. The food's presentation, however, is pure whimsy. Favorite dishes: A square of pork belly perched atop a tiny dollhouse chair.
The space itself is glorious, once you find it. Tucked behind the Trapeze School New York, a 36-foot, custom-built geodesic dome serves as the dining room and performance space. It's pitch black, which against the night sky and without outside lighting makes it difficult to spot. Inside, the vibe is fine-dining-in-outerspace, complete with dramatic lighting and an other-worldly soundtrack. The Washington Post has a great look at the dome's construction.
A word of caution: Be on your guard if you have food allergies. Though Sensorium's ticket website assures that those with dietary concerns will be accomodated, one diner had an allergic reaction during our performance.
There are two showings—6 and 9 P.M. Tickets are not cheap (forget buying a Groupon, they sold out in a hot second), and will run you $150 a person.
All things considered, we're fans of the show. Though it's certainly not perfect, Sensorium offers a theatrical dining experience that just isn't seen in D.C. these days. Hopefully, it's the start of things to come.
Related stories on The Feast:
Sensorium, a Theatrical 'Culinary Production,' to Pop Up Near Nats Stadium
Off The Radar Dining Will Cure the Winter Blues
